My first inkling of trouble was when the taxi driver said, as we approached Sultanahmet Square, Hagia Sophia is under construction. Do not worry, he said, it is still open for tours. Okay, I thought. It's okay. And it was dark so I couldn't see the structure itself. The next morning, however, as we approached for our timed tour, I saw the scaffolding. And the dome. That glorious dome made…




































